Paleochora – Beach Holiday in south-western Crete

Paleochora › Paleochora – Beach Holiday in south-western Crete

Are you looking for a quiet seaside resort in Crete, away from the crowds and surrounded by impressive nature? Welcome to Paleochora, my favourite place in Crete.

In this blog article, you’ll find out exactly what to expect in Paleochora. I’ll tell you about my experiences, show you the best things to do, beaches and reveal my personal tips for your holiday. Let’s go!

Paleochora (or Palaiochora) combines the best of Crete. A place full of beauty and contrasts. A romantic and authentic nest surrounded by the graceful, wild mountain ranges of the White Mountains. Gentle beaches, authentic local taverns, wild hikes and breathtaking excursions through impressive landscapes can all be combined with a holiday in Paleochora.

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Paleochora – Where the Libyan Sea meets the Soul of Crete

What to expect in Paleochora?

Paleochora is a paradise for individual travellers of all ages. In off season the older generation os more present, in July and August young travellers join. I highly recommend the place, especially for families with children. The main beach of Paleochora has fine sand and a gentle slope.

What you need to know: Paleochora is relatively secluded in the sparsely populated south-west of the island. It is surrounded by spectacular nature (and some great less frequented beaches), but there are no larger towns. So if you are looking for nightlife, action and hustle and bustle on your holiday, Paleochora is probably not the right place for you.

Paleochora Beaches

Paleochora is located on a small peninsula of Crete, which means there are always two main beaches within a short walk from the centre. So if the wind is up on one side you can head to the other side for a calmer beach day.

Pachia Ammos Beach

The Main Beach in Paleochora is Pachia Ammos or Paleochora Beach, extending for about a kilometer along the eastern bay with fine golden sand. The backdrop with the mountains on the horizon is super beautiful here.

In season, some cafés and taverns on the beach rent out deckchairs and parasols. The prices are reasonable: you should expect to pay around €10-15 per day. The front rows are a little more expensive, while the back ones are cheaper.

I particularly enjoyed the central area, where the water gradually becomes deep, perfect for swimming and snorkeling. The services are excellent: showers, changing rooms and several restaurants and bars roght by the sea.

Chalikia Beach

On the western side of the peninsula, Chalikia Beach extends. A pebble beach that is quite popular with locals and less crowded than the more famous Pachia Ammos. The beach is the ideal choice for those who want to relax away from the hustle. The sand turn insto pebble towards the sea, so bring your water shoes!

Gialiskari Beach

• Location: Paralia Gialiskari Beach Paleochora

Gialiskari Beach is the hidden gem in the surrounding of Paleochora. The beach is located about 10-15 minutes by car from the town centre and accesible via a dirt road along Keratides Beach. Galiskari Beach if my personal favourite and I definitely recommend you to visit. Surrounded by amazing rock formations, it offers an almost wild experience juts a short drive away from Paleochora.

Paleochora – Things To Do & See

Paleochora is a small coastal town in the south-west of Crete. For many decades, the village has been considered a well-kept secret for independent travellers in Crete.

Only approximately 2,000 people live in Paleochora. They are joined by numerous tourists during the season. The accommodation options consist mainly of privately run apartments and small hotels. You won’t find any huge hotel complexes in Paleochora (fortunately).

The beating heart of Paleochora is it’s seafront promenade by the harbour. During summer evenings it transforms into a lively social center where traditional taverns serve fresh seafood and cafes stay open until late. I spent some unforgettable evenings here sitting outdoors while watching the sunset paint the sky red over the Libyan Sea.

The small port of Paleochora it is much more than just a landing place: it is the starting point for some unforgettable excursions to small islands. Regular ferry services to Gavdos Island operate Thu – Sat during summer (45 minutes sailing with Anendyk Seaways).

Paleochora Old Town

The ‘old town’ of Paleochora consists of a few streets with cafés, taverns and small boutiques. The centre is really compact – you can walk around everything in no time and quickly find your way around. The special thing about it is that the sea is never far away, as you are surrounded by water on three sides.

The beauty of Paleochora: although tourism naturally plays an important role, local life has not been completely removed. You will see older people meeting in the village cafés and young people visit the (few) bars in the town in the evening.

Tip: from early evening onwards, the centre is closed to car traffic, so you can stroll around at your leisure and sit outside in the cafés. The town has retained a really relaxed atmosphere which is what I really loved about it.

Castel Selino – The old fortress

Paleochora is definitely not a place of impressive sights. Here, the focus of your stay is clearly on a relaxing beach holiday.

However, one highlight you shouldn’t miss is the climb to the old fortress, Castel Selino, which is located above the old town. An imposing Venetian fortress once stood here. Today, only the ruins remain.

To be honest, much more could be made of the site, and many areas are anything but well maintained. Nevertheless, the view is beautiful – especially in the evening hours just before sunset.

• Location: Castel Selino (Φρούριο Σελίνου)

You can reach the fortress from the centre in just a few minutes on foot. The path to the top leads up a staircase that starts at the picturesque church of Paleochora (Evangelistra Church).

Greek Food – Savour the local Tavernas

Even though the town might seem small, you can find everything here from local bakeries, restaurants and bars to scenic seafood places and also vegetarian or vegan food.

You can really look forward to some great tavernas and restaurants in Paleochora. I’ll reveal my tips here:

• Methexis Restaurant: One of the most popular restaurants in Paleochora, serving excellent Mediterranean and Greek cuisine with a modern twist. The chef personally takes care of his guests with great dedication. I recommend coming before sunset to watch the mountain backdrop bathed in the most beautiful sunset colours.
• ThirdEye: This gem offers a surprisingly wide variety of excellent vegan dishes. This is my preferred lunch spot in town and totally recommended for everyone.
• The Wave: The Wave is an institution – a famous fish restaurant, established in 1982 as a family business. The restaurant is located close to Chalikia Beach, offering great views of the Libyan Sea.
• Odysseia Pizzeria A really nice tavern with wood fired pizza oven, centrally located in Paleochora (in the area that becomes a pedestrian zone in the evening). Here you can find excellent Greek cuisine and pizza at fair prices. Staff are very attentive and friendly and you immediately feel welcome.
• Old School: Head to Old School if you have a car as it is located in Anidri village about 4km outside town. The local taverna offers some of the best views from high above onto the sea and serves fantastic food. Reservations required.

Hidden Gem for a Day Trip from Paleochora – Hiking the Anidri Gorge

Paleochora is also a great starting point for hikes in the surrounding area. I especially recommend a hike through the Anidri Canyon, leading from the village of Anidri down to Gialiskari Beach at the coast. This relatively unknown trail takes you through breathtaking scenery and ends at a secluded beach where you can cool off after your hike.

Anidri Gorge Hiking trail facts:

• Length: Approximately 3 km
• Difficulty: Easy
• Time: Roughly 1 hour to hike down from the top
• Scenery: Beautiful, with great views

How to get to Paleochora

From Chania

In my opinion, renting a car is definitely the best way to get around Crete and reach Paleochora to fully enjoy the area. The distance from Chania is 70 kilometres, the road is in good condition, and the journey takes about 1 hour and 20 minutes. The route is scenic, passing through traditional Cretan villages, old olive groves and mountains that gradually give way to views of the sea. Take the road passing through Kakopetros and Kandanos for the best scenery and views.

From Heraklion

If you arrive at Heraklion Airport, Paleochora is about 200 kilometres away (2 hours and 30 minutes by car). The route takes you along the coast passing by Rethymno and Chania, and then turning inland. My recommendation is to hire a car directly at Heraklion Airport and enjoy the journey across the island, perhaps stopping in Rethymno or Chania to break up the journey.

Is Paleochora worth visiting?

Paleochora is an up-and-coming tourist hot spot in Crete with pristine beaches and hiking trails. The beaches are clean and perfect for children to play, swim and snorkel. The water is shallow and transparent, and there are even cedar trees on the beach if you need a shady spot.

Where to stay?

Are you still looking for a place to stay for your holiday in Paleochora? Then I have a tip for you! I felt incredibly comfortable at the family-run Blue Horizon Hotel.

The word ‘hotel’ is a bit misleading – the small beachfront property is actually more like a collection of boutique apartments. The property is very well situated in the village. The breakfast on the rooftop was the perfect way for me to start my day.

Conclusion: A really pleasant stay. The owner is very friendly and helpful, the location is great and value for money is very good.